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Game changing skin care hacks I learnt from Hyram Yarbro

I started to watch YouTube more consistently during lockdown as I believe everyone else. Being very interested in skincare, after a few days Hyram Yarbro's videos popped up on the "recommended for you" section.

I was a bit suspicious: he looked like a teenager and not a competent dermatologist.

I decided to watch the video anyways because was about a retinol and I was looking for some clarifications about how and when to use it.

This is how I fell in love with the guy.

First of all, let me introduce him:

Hyram Yarbro is a skin care specialist/content creator living in Hawaii, known for his passion for skincare. His videos featured product recommendations, cheeky brands unmasking, cleaning techniques, and general dermatological information.

He started a YouTube channel not long ago to help people learn about complicated skincare topics in a simple way.

While he was working as a makeup artist at Saks Fifth Avenue, he began looking through the ingredients present in popular products such as moisturisers and serums. He started to notice inconsistencies between them and what he was reading in scientific articles on the best ingredients for your skin, so he realised that people buy skincare the majority of the time primarily on trust. They don’t know what makes the product work, and they rely on the person who is selling or recommending it to them, which is basically what I personally have been doing so far as I believe the majority of the people I know.

I literally watched most of his videos in a week as he is very funny and explains things clearly so everyone can grasp all sorts of of skincare mysteries.

I now really trust him because I managed to improve my overall knowledge and learned so many crucial facts that I really want to share with you now.

As a result my skin looks much better, so dramatically better that now I barely use any makeup at all. I have less redness around my nose and cheeks, less pimples, less dry patches in the winter and most importantly, I now am aware of which product to choose instead of just guessing and relying on cute packaging, ads on IG and so on.

These are all the tips and tricks I have learned from him:


Only invest in fragrance free skin care

Research has established that fragrances in skincare products are among the most common cause of sensitising and other long term negative skin reactions. And this is true for all skin types, not just those with sensitive or redness-prone skin. Essential oils or natural fragrant ingredients are no exception to this rule.

I used to love Kiehl's night recovery serum but it has a huge amount of essential oils fragrances and they are among the first ingredients.

At first, I didn't notice anything unpleasant about it, plus it smells amazing so I kept on put it on my skin regularly for moire than a year.

After a while, I my skin started to react quite badly but I didn't what was wrong.

After watching his video about the brand and in particular about this specific serum I stopped using it in my night routine. You cannot imagine my surprise when, after only a week, I saw great improvements in terms of sensitivity (especially redness around my nose and cheeks and red pimples).

This kind of reaction is quite frequent when using for a long time cosmetics that have essential oils.

Most common fragrances to avoid:

Linalool

Limonene

Citrus fruit extracts

Lavender extract

Sandalwood

Neroli

Rose flower

Ylang Ylang

Peppermint


Price is not automatically an indicator of quality

Before him, I honestly used to spend ridiculous amount of money in skin care products thinking that the price tag would indicate effectiveness.

The truth is that high end, expensive skin care brands too often are formulated with irritating and low-quality ingredients while rather new, cheaper brands actually have a higher percentage of the the best ingredients. The secret is to look at the ingredients list and figure out the exact skin type we have.


No more face scrubs

Physical scrubs are harsh on skin. They give instant gratification, leaving it feeling smooth, he said, but ultimately cause inflammation, redness and sensitivity. (“Face scrubs in general are just trash,” he commented in a TikTok video.)

Better alternative to get rid of dead skin:

Chemical exfoliants such as AHA (abbreviation of alpha hydroxy acid) recommended for dry skin or skin that has been damaged by the sun or BHA (beta hydroxy acid or commonly known as salicylic acid) recommended for an oily skin and for skin suffering from breakouts.


Ingredients don’t lie

No matter the size or popularity of a brand if the ingredients list on an expensive item is not amazing, then you are just buying "marketing bullshit".

Some major brands (such as The Origins, Drunk Elephant, La mer, Este Lauder and so on) advertise an items that most of the times contains only the tiniest amount of what should be the main ingredients. To put into simple words: it is like spending 150£ on a cashmere jumper only to find out in the composition label that it is actually made of 90% acrylic and 10% cashmere.

Get to know the best ingredients for your skin type and then check that your skin care products actually contains them.

When in doubt: check Paula's choice ingredients dictionary.

She supplies information about the ingredient you don't know if it is good or bad for your skin with scientific research backing up her info.

Ingredients to avoid:

Denatured SD Alcohol

Fragrance/parfum


Check the order in ingredient list

It is vital as ingredients are listed on the packaging from the highest concentration to the lowest. As a result, the ingredients at the top will be what it is most prevalent in the product you are buying.

If the best ingredients are placed after the 6th place, then the percentage is extremely low and therefore the product won't be effective.

On the contrary, if the first 6 ingredients listed are amazing, then you'll know that the item is a good quality purchase that you going to want to use.


Essential oil are highly irritating for your skin

Some essential oils are known to be allergenic and many are photosensitive or photo toxic, which means that they can cause a serious reaction if you apply them topically and then expose your skin to the sun's UV rays. Citrus essential oils, including lemon, lime, orange, and bergamot, are known to cause photosensitive reactions.

Natural doesn't always mean better

Some natural ingredients might cause irritation, allergic reactions and rash.


Sun screen is a must have

Sun damage is basically the main cause of the majority of skin issues we want to correct so using religiously a sun screen every single day (even in winter!) is fundamental.

Stick to the instructions

Make sure to check the brand's instructions on how long your should keep your face mask on for.

Leaving on for an hour a face masks when on the packaging the company suggests to take it off after 15 min could damage your skin (I was guilty of this all the time!).

Too much of a good thing is still too much.

Many skin care products that are nice to have are not vital

He points out that some items are not really necessary if your skin doesn't have specific issues.

These are:

-Eye cream: there is not a real differentiation between them and a normal face cream

-Toner: Using a toner can be a nice way to add active ingredients like retinoids, antioxidants and exfoliants but if you have other products containing them, there is no point.

-Essence: if you are using a serum is not needed.


Your skin sometimes needs break from treatments

When your skin is not getting better after using a bunch of different products and treatments give it break and reduce your skin care routine steps to the bare minimum: mild cleansing and moisturising.

And obviously, if your skin is not getting better go see a dermatologist



Best products of 2020 he is recommending:


Cleansers



Serums



Moisturisers



Thank you so much for reading my post, I hope you find some useful info!

Have a great start of the week!